Starting woes

[dasonba]

Hi All.

I hope it is ok to pick up on this thread, but it sounds like the identical problem I am having on my 1256 HC with Zenith 301Z.

The car was running fine, then I left it over winter, and now wont start. The symptoms sound the same as Ollie's. It turns over fine, the momentarily fires but immediately dies. It has a new battery, coil, ignition module, dizzy cap, plugs (checked gaps), leads. I've now also fitted a new electronic fuel pump (replacing mechanical), stripped & rebuilt carb (twice) with new jets (main & idler), cleaned galleries with compressed air, so am completely at a loss.

I can see the accelerator pump injecting fuel, but if I disconnect then there is no hint of firing which surprised me. I set the new idler jet by screwing it down onto the stop then backing off 3/4 turn. I this a good place to start?

I have checked spark strength at each plug, rotor arm position at TDC, order of leads, etc. Tried backing out timing, & advancing it, but still the same.

I still think it is fuelling (oh, I pumped through with new fuel as well), but I know very little about Zeniths so not sure what to try next.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Elliot

[Fred Dukes]

When you checked sparks were you winding it on the starter? This may require you to put mechanical points back in the dizzy - - put a plug in the lead that goes from the coil to the dizzy cap - make sure the point are in the closed position - turn on the ignition and flick the points open with a pencil or knitting needle ( something insulted) and see if you still have a spark - if no spark then suspect your ignition s/w or the wiring involved.
If the spark is ok make sure you petrol is a good flow from the tank by disconnecting the pipe from the carb and temp pumping into a container.
If flow is good check that the needle valve into the float chamber is not sticking and that the float moves freely
check that the float cuts off at the right Hight - info in Haynes manual.
If all that is ok drop some fuel in the air intake.
A few thoughts - you did ask

[dasonba]

Many thanks Fred.

I will look into your suggestions.

Much appreciated.

Elliot

[dasonba]

If you want to test for the problem droopsnoot is suggesting move the coil feed from D4 to D5 which will eliminate the ballast wire - this should have been done anyway when the electronic ignition was fitted? Is there any clue to be had from the fact that it was running ok prior to you sorting the feed pipe to the servo - is that all as it should be?

Hi Fred. I continue to & solve my problem. I've now been able to start the car but it will only keep running if I keep the starter engaged! I remembered this quote from you. which I suspect could be my current problem. What I not clear on is what you mean by a swap from D4 to D5. Is this the location on the fuse box? Thanks in advance. Elliot

[Fred Dukes]

Yes that is the connectors and fuse block on the bulkhead that takes the coil feed direct to 12v instead of through the ballast resistor - you will need to make sure you have the right type of coil for direct 12v connection - the original coil requires requires the ballast resistor in circuit otherwise it will overheat after a while - it should be ok whilst you see if it cures your problem.

[dasonba]

Hi Fred
That’s sorted it, thanks!
Elliot